In some instances, one want to regulate the foliage on a juniper. The unique foliage of the species is likely to be very unfastened, or liable to illnesses. In that case, grafting higher suited foliage is likely to be an possibility. Naturally, additionally it is a path to get branches at locations the place there are none.
Grafting in a course of wherein you’re taking part of one plant, and mix it with one other. This works solely when combining vegetation of very carefully associated species. Generally, most junipers might be grafted on different junipers as an example. However not on pines.
The method works by permitting the cambium layers of the donor and recipient plant join to one another, and over time create shared wooden and bark.
For grafting, you want a couple of fundamental instruments:
- Grafting tape
- A pointy knife
- A pair of scissors
- Some wires
- A donor plant
- A recipient plant.
- To start with, you’ll want to pre-stretch the grafting tape. Doing it will make sure that the tape can connect itself to itself
- Then you definitely clip a department from the donor plant. Ideally, it is a department that has turned woody. Cut back the foliage to the scale of a reducing
- Wrap the donor scion with grafting tape, ensuring the woody a part of the scion is left free. Every wrap of grafting tape must overlap with the earlier.
- Choose the placement the place you want to graft. With older trees, make sure you find a location with a strong sapflow
- With the knife, cut a sliver of bark & wood of about 1cm long on 1 side of the donor scion. On the other side, cut a tapered end of about 1/3 cm
- In the receiving plant, make a deep, slanting cut into the receiving branch of at least a cm long
- Slide the donor in the slit, with the donor on the side of the cut so that the cambium layers are as near to eachother as possible. The long slit comes against the recipient branch
- Wrap the connection with grafting taper, securing the scion in the cut
In order to give the graft the best change of success, you need to keep the grafts out of hot sun, wind and frost. For the first months there is barely any sap exchange between scion and recipient plant. As such, there is a real risk of drying out. And the callus formed during the healing, is for the first year or so weak, and easily breaks after which the graft with die.
Watch the whole process in the video!